with an older mans eyes I look out over the waves and think of the past,- when I first saw the ocean,its majestic power and life giving gift’s, I sat on it’s shore and wondered why It had such power over my senses, the rhythm of LIFE pulsating in it’s movement,never had I seen such a testament of truth of the great creator of this world,like a heartbeat of this planet, it was there for ALL to sea,for some it would be nothing more then an object to study and understand the science of IT,for others it would be a mystery to try to control but be limited to observe and wonder in awe.
but for the enlightened few who would look out over the waves and realize that this was nothing to study or control, but a gift to be enjoyed, a wonder to behold, and a life to be fulfilled. many pursuits have I chased since that day when I first saw this heartbeat of the earth, through all of my accomplishment’s, their was a wanting, a need, a desire,a longing to understand, now it is time to KNOW.
the more one surf’s, the more one LIVES !!!