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Don’t know about wreck diving but I’ve owned the top two for my dive flag. They worked pretty well and I got a few seasons out of them (20-30 dives) but if my life depended on them I would probably go for something more substantial.
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The main reason for line in wreck diving is for wreck penetration to be your "bread crumbs" to the exit in case of emergency (light goes off and backup too, sudden drop of visibility caused by reckless divers or other incidents etc). In that case medium to low low end line is enough as you’ll reel it back when exiting.
It has to be somewhat resistant to cuts (rusty wall edges etc.), but since it will not be used as fixed guide line or for lifting/salvaging I doubt you’d need tech grade lines. When it comes to reels it’s simply personal preference, but I found it important to have one that reels back in easily.
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From zielit: When it comes to reels it’s simply personal preference, but I found it important to have one that reels back in easily. Forgive my ignorance on this, but it reels back in automatically like a tape measure? Or do you have to reel it back in like a fishing reel by spinning a handle?
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I haven’t seen yet auto-retracting reel but who knows... i do not think it would be good for safety reasons. Let’s say your line gets cut. You have at least partial way out and can try to search other part close to place when it was cut. With auto-reel back once cut all "marked" way out would be lost. Also reel line are quite long so that would require strong spring and quite tension on the line which again would make it more prone to cuts.
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From zielit: i do not think it would be good for safety reasons. Let’s say your line gets cut. I guess that would not be good ...you’re deep into a wreck, you suddenly hear a "zip" and feel your reel "snap" and realize your reel line snapped and reeled itself in! ...Now would be a goos time to stop, think, then act! ...but you better not stop too long, you’re running out of air! ..yeah, NOT GOOD!
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Not just for pentetration, on scattered wrecks in low viz you lay a line from the anchor along the wreckage, tying off along the way so if the line gets cut/broken all is not lost. Cave arrows point back to the anchor.
Then as you go exploring off that line you either keep in in sight or tie on a smaller reel, I have a finger reel that is also used to shoot my marker bouy to the surface duing blue water stops. You explore out that line and then retrace. Move back toward the anchor and repete until you get to your turn around time.
If everyone has layed line then it’s easy for the DM to see how many dive teams are still on the wreck as the main reel is reeled in.
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From LatitudeAdjustment: Not just for pentetration, on scattered wrecks in low viz you lay a line from the anchor along the wreckage, tying off along the way so if the line gets cut/broken all is not lost. Cave arrows point back to the anchor.
Agreed, for my excuse i said it’d be main reason ;-)
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Oh, and they do make a smaller version of that, with 200’ of line.
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Having just got cavern certified, I too am in the process of learning just want works for me and my diving needs, in addition to my hand size trying to manage a flood light and a safety reel in the springs environment.
That said, the reel I acquired was cumbersome, and difficult to lay or reel in while holding a light. Even without a light, it proved difficult.
So, having just viewed these 2 video tutorials, I noticed the teacher’s reel. I liked it, so I sought it out. This is what he uses, and it’s top of the line. I will be buying one.
Meanwhile, after viewing the Light Money side handle reel, I decided to reconfigure my reel. I unbolted the top handle, and then cut down the steel spool guide. I then had new holes drilled in the handle, and bolted it onto the side, like the Light Monkey version.
I now love my reel, and it is so much more maneuverable, and fast. I also like that it is no longer a device to snag and get hung up on stuff either, nor drag on the bottom, or hit reefs, rocks etc.
I recommend a sidewinder.
Here are the two tutorials so you can see the reel in action.
http://vimeo.com/8159576
https://vimeo.com/8159626
My modified reel:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10201495167695300&am...p;type=1&theater
Light Monkey 400ft Primary Reel[Model: 30.100.400]http://www.diverightinscuba.com/... Light Monkey 400ft Primary Reel | Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL
www.diverightinscuba.comMade from all Delrin construction. - Spool is 5"(12.7cm) dia. and 2.25"(5.7cm) wide. - Handle is machined from a solid sheet of Delrin. - Come complete with 400’(121m) of #24 line and 4 3/8" double ender. - Now comes with Line Stop
Light Monkey Side Handle Delrin® ReelsSize #24 Line Hi-Viz Line Diameter Spool ReelLM Side Handle 200 200 ft 250 ft 4.00 in 2.00 in 4.75 in61 m 76 m 10.1 cm 5.1 cm 12.1 cmLM Side Handle 400 400 ft 550 ft 5.00 in 2.25 in 5.25 in122 m 168 m 12.7 cm 5.7 cm 13.3 cmLM Side Handle 800 800 ft 1000 ft 6.00 in 2.50 in 5.50 in244 m 305 m 15.2 cm 6.4 cm 14 cmLM Side Handle 1200 1200 ft 1500 ft 6.00 ft 4.00 ft 7.00 ft366 m 457 m 15.2 cm 10.1 cm 17.8 cm
Side Handle Reel Size ComparisonAmong diving professionals, Light Monkey Side Handle Reels are a popular choice because both the spool and handle assembly are made with machined solid Delrin®. Dupont Delrin is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts that require high stiffness, low friction, abrasion resistance and excellent dimensional stability. Light Monkey Side Handle include a marine quality 316 stainless steel double-ender, stainless steel lockdown screw, Delrin line stop bead, and are loaded with #24 cave line. Also available is an upgrade to Dive Gear Express exclusive custom-made Hi-Viz Dacron Line, in your choice of Hi-Viz Orange or Hi-Viz Yellow.The Primary 400 ft. runs ~$159. minus any sale prices.
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The majority of my diving has been wreck penetration in NC. I have had much success with the Manta reels. A bit of tension from the internal spring helps with unintentional line overruns. They work well for shooting an SMB as well. I can’t stand the thumb spools. They have their uses but I don’t believe they have any use for wreck diving, just my opinion. I would say though, if you’re going to worry about price, you’ll be glad you got a good one when you watch someone get a "bird’s nest" inside a wreck at 110’ and have to cut all the line off while you keep reeling and laugh. Good times.
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I use this one. http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/dive-rite-primary-reel-36-line/
I’m not penetrating or going so far from the anchor that I would need more. Bigger is
not always better.
I would just as soon move ten feet from the anchor and shoot a few fish while I am
still within site of the anchor strobe.
As Latitude mentioned there are a lot of limited visibility dives in Jersey waters.
A good starting point with 250’ of #36 line. A heavier line will hold up better against abrasions.
This is a good quality starting point, and will probably last you at least through wreck training.
Jersey wreck diving info http://njscuba.net/gear/eqpt_08_navigation_aids.html#reel
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The picture I posted above, of the 400 ft. Light Money Side Handle Reel, is for me if I decide to take up Cave diving. Otherwise, I have a 150, as my photo of it modified will attest to. I still think that side handles are easier and safer to deal with. Mind you, I’m no pro.
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lerpy - 9/14/2013 4:39 AM 
The style that SantaFeSandy shows above I also like, and have one very similar. My advice on thumb spools, if using them as well, is get ones with a plastic body. I find these are great as if you say use it for a SMB if you let go of the spool it will basicly float in place as it unspools, metal bodies ones will sink. I also like the high vis orange or yellow line. I use a reel or a thumb spool in low vis situations as well, like it was mentioned I will run a line from a moooring block to the actualy wreck if one does not exist, then I will mark that with a strobe. Just some added safety when diving in low vis conditions.
I would also recommend taking a course that teaches you proper use, and I will often do shore dives or other non penetration dives and use my reels simply to practice tying off and so forth.
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Lepry, please tell me more about a "strobe". Plus, from what I gathered, if a spool/reel has a handle to wind it, it’s called a reel, however, if it does not have a rewind mechanism, then it’s a basic spool. Is this correct?
So, if it is correct, then the "reel" that I have and modified, is indeed a reel, and not a spool. Just trying to be specific here.
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lerpy - 9/14/2013 5:14 PM
SantaFeSandy I apologize for my lack of detail.
Yes of course the reel such as yours, and mine have a handle and a mechanism for rewinding the line onto the reel.
The spool has niethet handle nor mechanism for rewinding line. What I was driving at was I find spools very handy for many things and I normally carry a couple on all my dives, for say running a line from a mooring block to a wreck if required in low vis.
A strobe is a bright blinking light that I also carry on dives that I will use to mark the mooring block, and to mark the line from the mooring block to the wreck so in low vis there are some references to find your way back to the line if needed.
I hope this clarifies what I was describing.
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Lerpy, how does the strobe mark the mooring block and the line? Does it register internal readings, or what?
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So, the sidewinder type reel seems to be the favorite. I’ll start looking at the models of those types of reels! Thank you all for the input and education!
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ks54 - 9/15/2013 12:57 PM
There are a lot of things invlolved with dive reels. Capacity, deployability, Reelability and operability for example.
Capacity. dependant on line size. the larger # of line the heavier. you will probably want perhaps 36 or so for wrecks. that is line that is like 36# for 600 yards or something like that. Wrecks unlike caves are highly susseptable to cuting line if not tied down correctly. You need heavier line for wrecks. The larger of line the larger the reel has to be to accomodate a given length of line.
deployability. you want to be able to just let the reel hang and let the line pay out. However you cant let just free flow, major tangling occures. A brakeing mechinism is needed to put a drag on the reel line to prevent line form going where you do not want it to be laying and to keep it tight on hte reel to prevent backlashing.. there are reels the have breaks on the spool edge of the reel and on the side of the reel. of ones on the side of the reel many are locks and some are breaks. i prefer the ones that are side breaks that when tightened enough functions as a lock.
Retrievablility. the larger diameter of spool you have the less you have to crank the thing to reel in you line
operability. you have to be able to use it. for me holding a top handle is not comfortable. a side handle works better for me. next you have to have a handle that you can operate the reel with. if you are in cold water you will be aearing gloves. they may not work well with a sidemount handle. make sure your reel has a guide on it that covers the entire front of the reel to insure all line stays on the reel and not the reel shaft.
Lastly you will need multiple reels a heavy long line reel and 1-2 small reels perhaps 50-100 foot reels. these allow you to tie off on the mail line that has been laid perhaps by your buddy and explore other areas and get back to the mail line. Sont forget arrows need to be able to attach to the lines. They point to the way out when you loose your bearings. Lastly the reel that works well for your buddy may not work for you.
One last thing do not fill the spool with line. you are ooking at tangling. always tie off to a tree in hte parking ot and deploy the line and reel it back in to ensure it is tangle free and not broken.
these are all things i have learned in trial and error.
To get all these qualities that work for you you somehow always end up paying more than 9.95 for a reel. mormally in the 100.oo or so area.
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I have two reels that I have been using for a few years and am pretty happy with them. They are both from Diverite. The first one is a primary sidewinder reel with 400’ of #24 braid line. http://www.diverite.com/products/catalog/reels/re50400 I use this mainly for deploying a lift bag to the surface while doing a free ascent from 100 so. It helps me maintain my ascent rate and lets the captain easily see where I am while waiting for me to ascend. The size of the handle is nice and my hand doesn’t cramp up from holding it.
I also use this reel to venture off the wreck out into the sand. That’s where the 400’ of line comes in handy.
My second reel is a smaller sidewinder with 140’ of #24 braid line. http://www.diverite.com/products/catalog/reels/re52140
I don’t use this one too often for the simple fact that, if I am reeling it for any amount of time, my hand cramps up from gripping the handle. It’s basically just for redundancy. I’m not a cave diver (yet), but would probably use this one for exploring off the main line, as mentioned in the previous comments.
Diverite is not cheap, but I don’t look too much at dollar amounts when it comes to surviving underwater. I eat peanut butter and jelly and get my clothes from wal-mart to save money, but I never skimp on dive gear. I broke my main reel spool one time and Diverite sent me another one for free. I like them.
In short, I have been using both for about 5 years and am very pleased with them.
p.s. Like ks54 said: always tie off your reel on the surface to a tree or something and run it out, then reel it back in before the dive to check for tangles or wear.
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